The Controversial Granny Square: the Birth of an Icon
Some crocheters love it, and some crocheters can’t stand it. If you’re a crocheter, you probably already know what I’m talking about—the granny square. These little squares spark all kinds of opinions, but no matter where you stand, their history is undeniably fascinating.
From their Victorian-era roots to their trendy revival today, these motifs have seen it all. Even if you can’t stand them, by the end of this journey, you might just have a newfound appreciation for their rich story.
Grab your yarn and hooks as we dive into the fascinating journey of this iconic crochet motif.
Early Origins
The exact origins of the granny square remain a bit mysterious, but publications like Martha Stewart Magazine trace the pattern back to the American Frontier as early as the 1700s. According to the magazine, “thrifty settlers faced with a dearth of warm textiles” had limited access to yarn, so the pattern was born out of necessity, using scraps to make the most of what they had.
However, colonial-era historian Lara Templin from the Jamestown-Yorktown Foundation offers a slightly different perspective. She notes, “Spinning was done by everyone capable, and yarn was often easier for younger kids to make than fine thread.”
During the 17th and 18th centuries, neither knitted nor crocheted blankets were commonly used in the U.S. Instead, people created bed hook rugs, which were similar to modern latch hooking, and made blankets from woven fabric.
The granny square, as we recognize it today, is believed to have its roots in mid-19th century Victorian England. Modular crochet was popular, with motifs or blocks worked individually and then joined to form larger pieces. Victorian patterns, often intricate and lace-like, appeared in publications like Beeton’s Book of Needlework (1870). These motifs showcased symmetry and geometric repetition, paving the way for the structured design of the granny square.
One of the earliest references to a granny-square-like motif appeared in Thérèse de Dillmont’s Encyclopedia of Needlework (1884). However, this design doesn’t fit the modern definition of a granny square—it was made with crochet thread, didn’t use double crochet stitches, and lacked the characteristic triangles and gaps. Nevertheless, it may have influenced Mrs. Phelps, who published the first recorded granny square pattern.
Mrs. Phelps’ design appeared in the Prairie Farmer Magazine, a weekly publication for U.S. farmers. During the 1800s, the magazine featured a domestic arts section, as these skills were essential at the time. In the April 4, 1885, issue, her pattern, titled “Crazy Work,” was described as:
“I have been trying a new crocheted pattern for an Afghan, which is on the principle of the crazy work so popular now. It is made in strips of the desired length, and with two of the blocks, which I have brought, forming the width (fig. 2). The long strips are crocheted together with a double chain stitch which is twisted, and of any two desirable colors. The small blocks can be sewn or drawn together, so as to make a perfect square, this joining being done on the wrong side. The idea is to have the blocks appear as one straight strip. Use Germantown wool.”
Mrs. Phelps’ design, made with worsted weight wool, was bold and innovative for the time, setting a trend. Her work aligned with the “crazy work” movement of the 1880s, where fiber artists created patchwork-style blankets and clothing from brightly colored scraps. In this context, “crazy” referred not to madness but to the irregular or crooked shapes used in the designs.
Her instructions for the first known granny square read:
- 1st row: Make a chain of a circle; then over that, work 12 long stitches and fasten together the worsted by drawing through 2 or 3 stitches. Fasten and cut it off.
- 2nd row: With another color, start a shell between any of the 12 stitches in the preceding row. The shell consists of 6 long stitches, with one chain between the 3rd and 4th stitches. Make 4 of these shells; join the 1st and 4th, and finish off the end of the worsted as before.
- 3rd row: With another color, make a shell of 6 long stitches, with one chain between the 3rd and 4th stitches, in the center of the shell of the preceding row. On each side between these shells, make 3 long stitches; finish off the same as for the 1st and 2nd row.
- 4th row: With the block, make one long stitch between each stitch of the preceding row, except at the center of the shell and the stitch on each side of it, putting 2 stitches in each place on each corner.
A variation of the granny square appeared on March 4, 1888, in the Boston Globe, published by Eva Marie Niles. Her design featured a black border and instructions to sew the blocks together with black yarn, although she didn’t credit Mrs. Phelps. Niles noted in her book that she drew inspiration from various magazines and newspapers, suggesting Mrs. Phelps’ original pattern likely influenced her work.
Granny square-like motifs resurfaced in 1891 in The Art of Crocheting, which included a pattern called “Block for a Slumber Robe.” Although the book didn’t provide instructions, it featured an engraving illustrating the method.
After this, the granny square seemed to fade from prominence until its reappearance in Fleisher’s Afghans (1930) and later in the 1940s in The Complete Book of Crochet by Elizabeth Laird Mathieson. During this period, crocheters used simple square patterns to create bedspreads and afghans—an early form of stash-busting! They also incorporated the motif into garments.
However, the granny square truly gained popularity in the 1970s. Craft books, magazines, and newspapers in the U.S. and Europe published countless variations of the design. Patterns ranged from blankets to garments, accessories, and even household items. Publications like Woman’s Day Granny Squares and Granny Squares and Shapes cemented the design’s place in mainstream culture.
Granny squares were everywhere!
Overview of its U.S. History
It became a staple project for American women, who embraced crochet as both a practical skill and a creative outlet, often passing it down from generation to generation. In an era when many families lived in rural areas, crafting home goods by hand was a necessity.
Back then, you couldn’t just run to the craft store for yarn or order blankets online—if you needed something, chances were, you had to make it yourself.
Granny squares offered a clever and efficient way to use up leftover yarn, turning scraps into warm blankets or decorative throws.
During the Great Depression in the 1930s, crochet—especially the granny square—played an even more vital role in American households. With money tight and resources scarce, families adopted a 'make-do-and-mend' mentality. The granny square's thriftiness and versatility made it a perfect solution. It wasn’t just about crafting something beautiful; it was also about ensuring nothing went to waste. Every piece of yarn had a purpose.
The granny square found further significance during World War II. With yarn and fabric rationed—especially wool—women still sought to keep their homes warm and provide for their loved ones. They crocheted afghans and lap blankets for soldiers or donated them to organizations like the Red Cross. This was a way to support the war effort from home while providing comfort to those overseas. The granny square became a symbol of resourcefulness and community spirit, connecting people through acts of care and creativity during challenging times.
After the war, crochet's popularity waned slightly during the 1950s, as other trends took center stage. However, it surged back in the 1960s and 1970s. During this period, the granny square became a symbol of counterculture and a statement of personal expression. American crochet artists embraced bold colors and intricate patterns, reflecting the free-spirited and experimental ethos of the time.
Granny square blankets adorned countless homes, but their influence didn’t stop there—they became a cornerstone of the DIY fashion movement. From ponchos and vests to funky hats and bags, granny squares transformed into vibrant fashion staples. This revival cemented the granny square’s status as a beloved icon of American craft culture. In fact, Europeans often referred to granny squares as “American Crochet,” highlighting its deep cultural roots in the U.S.
The term 'granny square' is believed to have originated because grandmothers frequently made them, crafting quilts and blankets for their families. By the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the granny square as we know it today had firmly established itself as a cherished symbol of thrift, resourcefulness, and creativity in American homes.
The Birth of an Icon
The 1960s and ’70s truly marked the granny square’s golden age, catapulting it from a domestic craft into a counterculture icon. 🚀
This was the era of free love, self-expression, and DIY fashion, and the granny square fit right in. What had once been a symbol of practicality became a badge of creativity and individuality. The versatility of granny squares made them perfect for the bold, funky styles of the time. You’d find them everywhere—from blankets and pillows to fashion staples like vests, skirts, ponchos, and even bikinis!
Publications like Woman’s Day Granny Squares and Granny Squares and Shapes by the editors of Woman’s Day helped launch the trend into mainstream culture. These books showcased patterns for everything from home décor to statement clothing, inspiring a wave of new crafters eager to embrace this groovy style.
The granny square’s hippie-chic aesthetic didn’t stop with the DIY crowd—celebrities and fashion designers adopted the motif, turning it into a high-fashion phenomenon. Bold colors, unexpected combinations, and experimental designs made granny square pieces a must-have for anyone looking to make a statement.
It wasn’t just about fashion, though. The granny square became a fixture of pop culture. Cozy afghans and granny square blankets appeared in living rooms across America, featured in TV shows, movies, and advertisements. Handmade items like these carried a nostalgic charm, symbolizing comfort, warmth, and a touch of personal history. Many people recall growing up with a granny square blanket lovingly crafted by a family member—a vivid thread connecting generations.
This period also emphasized crochet as a communal activity. Crochet circles flourished as people gathered to create together, swapping patterns, sharing skills, and collaborating on projects. Granny squares were the ultimate group project: each participant could crochet a few squares, which would later be joined into a larger piece like a blanket. This sense of camaraderie and connection harkened back to earlier times while also feeling fresh and exciting for a new generation.
Even after the ’70s, the granny square has remained a cultural icon. Its vibrant patterns, endless versatility, and nostalgic appeal have ensured its place in crafting history. Every generation of crafters rediscovers the granny square, reimagining it with a modern twist while honoring its rich legacy. From its counterculture heyday to its current status as a timeless crochet staple, the granny square has truly stood the test of time. 🌟
1980s to Early 2000s: The Granny Square Fades Away
The 1980s and 1990s marked a quieter era for the granny square—a time when its once-vibrant popularity faded into the background of mainstream culture. 🌅
After the explosion of DIY fashion and crochet in the ’60s and ’70s, the next two decades brought a wave of mass production and a shift toward sleek, futuristic aesthetics. The bold, high-tech vibes of the '80s, with its neon colors, synthetic fabrics, and polished styles, didn’t leave much room for the cozy, homespun charm of crochet. Granny squares, in particular, were viewed as "too retro" or "old-fashioned" to fit in with the glossy minimalism that dominated the era.
Similarly, in home décor, trends leaned toward coordinated, mass-produced pieces, pushing the eclectic and colorful granny square afghan to the sidelines. By the '90s and early 2000s, with grunge and minimalist aesthetics taking center stage, the granny square became more of a nostalgic relic than a fashion or decor statement.
But while granny squares may have stepped out of the spotlight, they never truly vanished. Many homes still held onto cherished blankets—family heirlooms or sentimental reminders of loved ones who had crocheted these pieces by hand. For those lucky enough to inherit a granny square creation, these items carried deep personal meaning, becoming quiet symbols of tradition and love.
Craft circles and fiber art communities also played a vital role in keeping the granny square alive during this lull. Crochet magazines, small-town fairs, and local crochet groups continued to celebrate this classic motif, experimenting with fresh color combinations and creative applications. The granny square became something of an underground treasure—less visible to the public but deeply rooted in the hearts of crafters and hobbyists.
This quieter period also allowed for a new generation to be introduced to crochet, often learning from family members or picking up granny square patterns that had been passed down. This connection to the craft, even during its less trendy years, planted the seeds for its eventual resurgence.
And as we know, trends are cyclical. 🌟
By the early 2000s, the cultural tide began to turn. A growing interest in handmade goods, sustainability, and vintage-inspired fashion set the stage for a crochet comeback. Granny squares, with their endless versatility and nostalgic charm, were perfectly poised for a revival. From a symbol of resourcefulness to a pop culture icon, the granny square had taken a brief hiatus but was ready to reclaim its status as a timeless crochet staple.
The Modern Revival
And here we are—today, in the midst of a granny square renaissance! 🎉 Over the past decade, and especially during the 2020s, granny squares have staged a spectacular comeback, riding the wave of crochet's booming popularity. This resurgence found a stronghold during the pandemic, when people turned to crafts as a source of solace and creativity, rediscovering the joy of handmade art.
Social media platforms like Instagram, TikTok, and Pinterest have been pivotal in this revival, with fiber artists reimagining the granny square in bold, unexpected ways. The possibilities are endless—granny squares have found their way into everything: funky bucket hats, festival-ready cardigans, cozy home decor, stylish crop tops, and even avant-garde fashion pieces. Each new take celebrates the unique artistry and modern flair that today’s creators bring to this classic pattern.
Conclusion: A Timeless Treasure
What’s made the granny square endure for so long? It's the perfect blend of simplicity and versatility. The basic pattern is easy to learn, making it a go-to for beginners, while experienced crocheters can push the boundaries with intricate designs and innovative applications. Its eco-friendly appeal is another reason we love it—using up leftover yarn to craft granny squares is as practical as it is sustainable.
But beyond its practicality, the granny square is steeped in nostalgia and connection. Crafting one ties us to generations of makers before us, while allowing space for our unique self-expression.
In the end, it’s that mix of heartfelt sentiment, artistic potential, and modern adaptability that keeps the granny square alive and thriving. This humble little square has proven its staying power, weaving its way through decades of crafting history and into our hearts. And honestly, I couldn’t be happier to see it shine again! 🧡🧶✨
Long live the granny square! 🎉 What's your favorite way to use them? Let me know in the comments!
If you'd like more granny square patterns or check out ideas on how to use granny squares in your project, watch the Granny Square Playlist. Read 100 FREE Granny Square Projects or 50 Crochet Projects to make with Granny Squares to gain inspiration for your next project!
Videos to Check out NEXT:
SOURCES:
The World’s First Granny Square Pattern (Plus 7 More to Make) // https://theyarnqueen.co.nz/worlds-first-granny-square-pattern/?v=0b3b97fa6688
The Project Gutenberg eBook of Encyclopedia of Needlework// https://www.gutenberg.org/cache/epub/20776/pg20776-images.html
Christopher Kane Fall 2011 Ready to Wear Runway // https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2011-ready-to-wear/christopher-kane
What was once Granny is now Chic by By Danielle Romanetti // https://alexandriastylebook.com/alexandria-stylebook/fibre-space-granny-chic
Crazy Quilting: A Labor of Love by Krista Moser // https://www.kristamoser.com/post/2017/08/27/crazy-quilting-a-labor-of-love
History of the Crazy Quilt by American Patchwork & Quilting Editors // https://www.allpeoplequilt.com/quilt-patterns/history-of-the-crazy-quilt
Granny A-Go Go: History of Crochet Granny Squares by tschmiege via Interweave // https://www.interweave.com/article/crochet/history-of-crochet-granny-squares/
The Art of Crocheting by Butterick Publishing Company // https://archive.org/details/artofcrocheting00lond/page/94/mode/2up?ref=ol&view=theater
Victorian Crochet: A Sport of its Own by Vicki Square //https://pieceworkmagazine.com/victorian-crochet-a-sport-of-its-own/
Beeton's Book of Needlework by Isabella Beeton // https://www.gutenberg.org/files/15147/15147-h/15147-h.htm
Victorian Victorian Crochet Lace Shawl by Vintage Visage // https://vintagevisage.typepad.com/my-blog/2012/08/vintage-victorian-crochet-lace-shawl-patterns.html
1 comment
Well done! Thank you for sharing this. The history of the granny, was enlightening. Thank yoy